Quick, Canadian fashion names? Lululemon, Canada Goose and, what, Denver Hayes and CCM. Those are likely the first names that pop to mind. A Canadian fashion identity, if it exists, seems tied to athleisure wear and cold protection, with dash of handyman thrown in.
The question is why. True, there is no equivalent to Saville Row or Jerymn Street in the Great White North. And we have don’t the insouciance of the French who pull off cravats and berets. But how is it that, as Canadians, we have managed to retain little sartorial sensibility from our European forefathers.
Putting aside Italy and the culture of sprezzatura that seemingly permeates the bloodline from birth, even the Americans have developed a style – button-down shirts, casual Fridays (for better or worse) and motorcycle chic.
What sparked this rumination is a great blog called Grey Fox that is written by David Evans – in which he explores British fashion brands of all sizes and that suit men of a certain age. My hair and birth certificate are in complete agreement, I fall within the target.
Now this is not an attempt to completely rip-off the concept, largely because Canada is devoid of the mass needed to make it work. But there must be some home-grown fashion brands and not just marketers. So the search began.
First, let us deal with Lululemon and Canada Goose. The former is off-limits due to the attitude of staff; 75 pounds ago they were dismissive, even when asked a direct question about a choice between two items and now, when price shopping, they are all sweetness and light but still won’t get a sale (think of it as Fat Man Revenge). And Canada Goose – well, home is Victoria, with the most temperate climate in Canada. No need for such outerwear, but a bright red toque is possessed.
So back to the idea: could you be fully suited and booted in Canadian brands? Maybe. But it certainly isn’t easy to find them.
Truth be told, when the pounds first disappeared and a new suit was needed the target was Hugo Boss. No specific reason, not a great attachment to German tailoring, but that was the objective and it was acquired.
Then when it was time for a suit that was not blue or grey, Michael (my guy at the time) brought out an assortment. The one chosen was Samuelsohn, a brand hitherto unknown. All praise to Google, though, it didn’t take long to reveal it was a long-standing garment manufacturer based in Montreal. Now Samuelsohn outnumbers all other suits, including a couple of made-to-measure (double-breasted pictured above).
Before exposure to Samuelsohn, the only other Canadian brand that was familiar was Jack Victor – another Montreal-based company that is generations old. A sports coat was bought, enjoyed and outgrown and the challenge in replacing it was finding a local retailer.
Upon further research, Coppley could be added to the list, thus proving it’s possible to suit up in Canadian fashion.
And that’s an important point – all three (particularly it seems Samuelsohn) are intent on dressing successive generations and not just current customers. Expansion into new markets isn’t easy but is undertook; the mix of colour and fabric is confident. And while no one looks at it and goes that’s a Canadian cut, it does offer something strangely Canadian – an amalgam of styles.
So how about booted? A little more of a challenge. There is not a host of Canadian men’s shoes. John Fluevog, obviously, tops any list. He’s taken whimsical global. As a guy who has Church’s, Johnston and Murphy and Clarks as wardrobe mainstays, though, Fluevog can take some getting used to – so still working on that first pair. Maybe for next Vegas trip.
Poppy Barley should fit the bill, made-in-Canada and handcrafted. The task, though, is being able to get them properly fitted. Good news is Vancouver will be visited by a pop-up shop on June 1 to 3. Brilliant idea, as buying shoes online after having tried and knowing true measurements is workable; hoping you measured the variables correctly and sent them off for hand-made shoes is a leap of faith almost Knievel.
There’s also Viberg Boots, based in Victoria, who were leading work boot craftsmen and have taken that talent and expanded into the lifestyle category. They are worth a look, for sure, and likely next on list.
This is the problem, though. In each classification it is possible to discover one or two Canadian brands. Underwear: Stanfield’s, an old classic, and Saxx, the new darling on the market. Socks, dress not work, none spring to mind. Shirts is tougher. Right now closet is occupied by Charles Tyrwhitt, ordered online from England (collar and sleeve length easily attained); they’re simple, good quality shirts that fit my odd dimensions. In Canada, Spiers and Mackay has been noted as a Canadian supplier, so stay tuned for that update. And Bugatchi makes great range of casual shirts.
Sweaters seems to be the purview of the British, Northern Europeans and Ralph Lauren. But aside from Canada Goose, the only Canadian brand that’s been found is Patrick Assaraf – good quality and clean lines (many American designers seem to think embellishments add something; humbly submitted, they don’t). As well, this brand makes a nice polo (see pic above).
And as to headgear, regrettably, we seem unable to produce anything beyond toques and helmets (hockey or snowmobile). Here in Victoria, there is a lovely millinery shop called Roberta’s Hats and while it is a local business the same is not true of its stock (which is not a criticism). Most of my caps – to be separated from ball caps – are Christy’s from England or Wigens from Sweden. If there is a fine Canadian cap maker, please inform immediately.
Burgeoning is not the right word for Canadian fashion. Maintaining does not do justice. Evolving is likely the right word. For those residing in burgs like Victoria that can be difficult to establish. Hunting in the smaller shops like – Four Horsemen and Still Life for Him – is odd for gentlemen of a certain age. But also refreshing to see what’s coming. And places like Outlooks, DG Bremner and, yes, Harry Rosen provide avenue to dress for the age we are. So the search continues for more Canadian content. And who knows, maybe a Canadian nonchalance will be unearthed on the way. We can call it Canprezzata.
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